The very definition of the phrase getting dressed has changed dramatically in the past six months, to the point where zipping up a pant that isn’t a legging or wearing a modest heel qualifies as a serious effort. Where does that leave an eveningwear brand like Marchesa?
There were no occasions to dress for this summer and few red carpets to photograph. Intimate weddings are just now coming back here in the states. But 2021 will (hopefully) be a different story. As much of the world “reopens” and we dream of better days ahead, women may be more excited than ever to find a reason for a glamorous, special-occasion-only gown. Georgina Chapman is still conscious of how women will be feeling as they reemerge. On a Zoom call from her Chelsea showroom, she pointed out that her spring 2021 collection doesn’t include a single ballgown.
“We just felt like that isn’t what’s needed right now,” she explained, picking up a diaphanous, rose-printed dress in ultralight organza. She and her team relied on bold colors and tropical motifs to provide some uplift, from a solid raspberry gown with a cascading ruffle—“Marchesa’s version of simple,” Chapman joked—to a fully sequined column with 3D flowers, glittering birds, and poufs of feathers. Other gowns had a touch of a loungewear feeling, like a silvery column topped with a sheer feathered cape and a black crepe minidress with feathered cuffs. But the real surprises were the truly simple, pared-back gowns, like a white and navy column with a twisted bodice and a similar style in sapphire mikado. Look closer, and the draped silk was actually dotted with teeny-tiny crystals: relaxed, but still special. (vogue.com)