Marchesa’s design director, Anna Holvik, said the fall collection felt like “turning a page.” She and her team (led by Georgina Chapman) seemed to have entered the design studio with a new sense of energy.
Chalk it up to an increase in sales—particularly in the Middle East—and their growing confidence in creating more experimental, anti–ball gown looks. Fall included a surprising number of above-the-knee dresses, for instance, like a long-sleeve cocktail number in lavender lace with a draped satin skirt. The look had Marchesa’s signature romance and drape, but without the embellishments or heavy corsetry of the past. Physically lighter constructions have been the story at Marchesa for a few seasons now (both for couture and bridal), but fall was more or less the pinnacle of those efforts. Even the explosive tulle gowns felt light and airy, and as far as true “wearability,” the burgundy velvet blouse with built-in strands of pearls and crystals, shown here with matching trousers, would lend itself to endless combinations.