The ordinary— a white shirt, a dress, a pencil skirt— becomes extraordinary through shape and volume for Valentino SS20

“I wanted to work on something universal, to get back to the essence of shape and volume,” he said. “So I worked on the idea of the white shirt, but treating it with a couture sensibility.”

These were hardly workaday basics—the idea ran from the wrap-over dress at the opening though meditations on huge, airy bishop sleeves; ruffles; mini shifts; shorts; transparency; and feathers. It felt like a long gulp of fresh air and optimism centred on something known. (