Close up: Francesco Scognamiglio SPRING 2017 COUTURE

For his sophomore show as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Francesco Scognamiglio diffused the flavor and finery from his native Naples through gilded Parisian salons built for Roland Bonaparte, grandnephew of Napoléon.

The handmade porcelain roses dotting the leather miniskirts that opened the lineup and staggered across the powder pink satin wedding gown that closed it could be traced back to the Capodimonte museum which houses the 18th century boudoir of Queen Maria Amalia of Saxony.

If, as he noted, these breakable buds “represent a woman’s inner fragility,” the message from his 20 Spring looks was rock ’n’ royal. Baroque tracery on a slinky silver slip dress, oversize stud embellishments, and latex stockings were among the signs that Scognamiglio hasn’t tempered his extroverted taste to fit in among the established French houses. Even so, he can cut a sheer and shimmery gown that stands up against any other—not least because his secret is a barely there bodice that creates the striking sculpted necklines. (